Sunday, January 23, 2011

Rome Weekender 3

So my instinct was pushing me to explore more crowd-free Rome. I had the other side of an unexplored area in mind, Nero’s Palace…( Domus Aurea)! It was something I have not heard of anyone visiting in. We started walking in that opposite direction, entered the compound, climbed the hill, it was a beautiful, peaceful place to walk in. There was no tourist, some old people here and there, just in 200 meters of Colosseum’s crowd, there is absolute calmness!
I realized that it means there is no access the ‘palace’, and the compound belongs to the palace, is open for public…enjoying the evening Sun from that hill top…crossed over to the other gate of Domus Aurea…. lonely narrow streets, with walls of stone bricks on one side…it resembled to walking in the downtown areas of old Trivandrum( which is around the Padmanabha Swami temple), which will have either the high stone wall of the temple on one side, or the old wall made for the fortification of the downtown district itself…!
We got in to a main road, after another 10-15 mins of walk, now enough of peaceful streets… tried to see if we can get back to ‘site seeing’. Walked to the nearest bus stop, and saw two Indian faces…it is not only Indian…it is more specific…two priests(in ‘mufti’) from Kottayam…! Just said a Hi, and they were also happy to meet a mallu…they directed me to walk a little more to reach one of the three important Basilicas in Rome, Santa Maria Maggiore . We decided to take their direction, and passing through the big Basilica, we walked to Termini.
We were pretty tired, it was around 5, the walking tour at 5 also is ruled out ! We went in to the mall incorporated with the Termini station, and had cappuccinos, and Gelato for Pranav. That resembled the bakeries with a small serving area, and a few table + 2 chair setup, in India, it was good and the rates were same as anywhere else in the city. Took a metro to Flaminio… to come out of the station and see Piazza del Popolo. It was already dark… and darkness was something my old cameras didn’t like…Now I think I am in a better position to click as usual increasing its ISO. Then walked through narrow crowded ‘Via del Babuino’ to Piazza de Spagna where you can see the Spanish Steps. This is said to be the widest staircase in Europe, built in warly 18th century, a century after the Fontana della Barcaccia ( Fountain of the Old Boat), seen at the bottom of the steps, was built !
Imagine a square and a fountain in 1627… and then a French diplomat building a broad step from it to the church above, in 1724! If it sounds interesting, you would like Rome. And 1724 is something very recent, comparing to the structures made dating to BC… so for Italians, for them, it is modern Rome!
Climbed the steps, up to the church on the top, went in, I wouldn’t say anything amazing, the structures are made long back, the place existed centuries ago, and most important, the crowd was appreciating it! The same thing as Mona Lisa J, either it is so, or I don’t have enough sense or knowledge to appreciate it.
Climbed down, after taking some pictures of the view from the top, started walking a bit through much more crowded ‘Via Condotti’; it was too much a crowd, so came back and decided to walk through Via Due Marcelli (meaning Marcelli 2nd Street) to Fontana del Tritone( Tritone Fountain) situated in Piazza Barberini.
This fountain was executed in travertine in 1642–43. At its centre rises an larger than lifesize muscular Triton, a minor sea god of ancient Greco-Roman legend, depicted as a merman kneeling on the sum of four dolphin tailfins. His head is thrown back and his arms raise a conch to his lips; from it a jet of water spurts, formerly rising dramatically higher than it does today. The Tritone, was erected to provide water from the Acqua Felice aqueduct( one of the springs which brough water to Rome) which Urban had restored, in a dramatic celebration. So the purpose was different; public fountains in the city of Rome had been passive basins for the reception of public water.
So, the water coming out of all these fountains are (still) drinkable…and it is not something which goes to be pumped again….
Time was nearing 7 PM, we had started this walk around 1:30! And, except for a small coffee break at Termini, we have not sat anywhere. The lunch was also that junk pizza, in standing mode. We decided to take metro from Barberini station to
Termini and walked back to the hotel around 7:30.
I was still in thrill to go to Colosseum and try a night shot with long exposure… asked Krithi about the idea…she looked at me and asked, ‘don’t you have a conscience!’ I got my message and immediately dropped the plan. She had been a patient companion for my voyages (I remember even my classmates never use to come with me if I say ‘for a walk’). She, even while 4 months pregnant, had dared to come sitting in overnight train, and two full days of mountain drives and then return journey also overnight sitting… in Australia !
An hour of rest, we found a small restaurant around the corner for dinner… it was a very good pick, though random. We enjoyed a wonderful Penne Arabiatta, grilled vegetables seasoned with morzerella, and Pranav also quickly became a pet for the two servers… we really enjoyed the meal, and ended our first day in Rome.