Rome Weekender 6

We were in a dilemma. I know it is not fatal – Pranav cried, he is conscious, and fine. But the wound is big, and open, infection can prove dangerous. On the other side, we are in a place where we don’t know the language, no idea on where or how we can reach a medical centre. We need to find a doctor who can analyse the situation and stitch the wound.

Another fear also was that if we were asked to stay back for taking some tests, scans, and get admitted; I could surely expect if this had happened in Chennai for a tourist and he goes to one of the big hospitals. It may be necessary, or may be just a way to make a little quick money.

Both of us lost our appetite and were thinking over and over. I think I should appreciate Krithi for her maturity and for her trust in me to think through the problem we would get in to than just screaming out to save ‘her’ child! I would expect that from a normal Indian mother, not to blame!

We decided to check at the reception what to do. Already two hours past the incident, it is 10 pm now. I went down to the reception leaving Krithi with Pranav who was still fast asleep. My biggest challenge at reception was to tell the gentleman at reception, a very approachable man in his early 50s. He couldn’t understand a single word, except blood and I hope he understood it is for my little son, and the blood is from back of his head.

He took me to the pub next door, pulled out the barman there and asked me to explain to him the situation. And then, it was easy. Once he got the story, he told me to not to panic and just bring Pranav down.

I thought he is planning to have some first aid, and the way he told also looked like ‘I will take care’. But I was surprised to see an ambulance with lights blinking waiting for us!

We both were prepared to surrender myself to face any situation now. Pranav was cool; he was excited to enter the blue rolling light and siren, proudly sitting inside it! The journey to the hospital was around 5-6 kms. I was calculating the maximum I could pay with my debit and credit cards… and what to do if the bill crosses these limits…!

It went in to a small hospital, they call it poly clinic. None of the ambulance staff spoke English, none in the polyclinic too. At the reception, the ambulance staff explained something. The lady at the reception asked for Pranav’s passport, then checked ours.

‘Tourist?’ she asked.

‘Yes’.

Our conversation ended. Then, she was asking some questions to the person (in his early 50s) who was in the ambulance gang. She made entries in her system from the passport, and asked us to wait. There was another family who got a less than a year old baby who fell from the bed. There were only them waiting with us, who had to come with their baby at this late hour of a Monday. They spoke English. Pranav was sitting with half-sleep, and I could see the agony of uncertainty in his face also.

A 5-10 minutes wait, we were called in. A senior doctor and two post graduate junior doctors, all three females, welcomed us. We thought we will get an English response there at least, but no luck! They saw the wound, the senior doctor instructed something to the two, possibly post graduate students. They asked us to hold Pranav firm. With Krithi holding his legs, one of the students holding his hands, the other did the stitching, while I was holding his head firm. I was wondering why there is no local anesthesia. Krithi started crying seeing Pranav crying loudlyL. The students consoled her saying it will be fine quickly (this too is a translation I assume). Once it was done, Pranav was not anymore crying. He was happily up and was thanking the doctorsJ, my little brave boy! The senior doctor gave me a paper which detailed/proved about the treatment done. I asked them on why there is no local anesthesia used. They told some reason why they didn’t give anesthesia. She also told that the stitches will be absorbed, no more attention needed (But that too was my pick from her body language as she spoke in Italian). I didn’t understand a thing, but I nodded with a thankful smile as if I understood it all.

Then I was checking the papers of the treatment given, the bill was missing! I went to the reception asking where to pay! She didn’t understand, and on the contrary, seeing me looking for something, the lady suddenly ‘discovered’ that I am worried as to how to go back and she said (in English) ‘will call taxi for you’ and went in!! I was just stuck…not sure what to do!

Luckily met the English speaking family again and I put my question to him. He told me with a smile, ‘It is all free, no money’!

It is Free?! I can’t believe it! At an odd hour of night, you call ambulance, go to the hospital, and get your kid’s head stitched… all for Free!!! It is not so in any country I know!

The taxi was ready for us in less than ten minutes, and we were in our hotel in another 5-10 minutes. Actually, the taxi driver spoke better English. And all I paid was the 10 Euros for Taxi! We had a peaceful sleep back in hotel.

Thank you, Rome! I will never forget this night!

Rome Weekender 5

Day 3 : Vatican and Trevi fountain

It was tough to get up in the morning. All our legs were paining. Started our day’s errand after breakfast, around 10!

Took Metro to Termini from Pretorio and changed to line A towards Battistini to get down at Ottaviano. The weather was cloudy, and had started looking like it could drizzle anytime. Rome, we had heard, will have rains during mid Nov till mid Dec.

The Skip-the-line teams caught us out of the metro station itself. Their theory was simple: normal route takes 1-1.5 hours for the queue for ticket for entry, 15 Euros goes for the fees, and then you are on your own. Now you skip the long lines (there was the catch, still there was a shorter line which was 15-20 mins long), a guide to take you through the history of history and importance of each part, and it costs 45 per person.

I had already planned to go with them as it had that knowledge with value for money. My only concern was if they will charge for Pranav too… but he was free.

The person who ‘got’ us took us to their office, we paid the money, and then another person took over as we joined a group, and we walked to the centre of Vatican. We crossed the ‘border’ in less than a minute walk, with no immigration checks.

The real guide was waiting for our group to join a group already there. So now, it was some 10-15 people in the group. She talked about the St.Peters, the pillars around the centre forming two semi circles. It looked huge and grand ! A huge Christmas tree was getting ready in front of us, with cranes around it doing the decorations !

After a briefing there, with all of us having an earpiece to tune in to the mic of our guide, took us to a souvenir shop and ‘gave’ us time for 15 mins to shop there.

Now, it started looking like going to an agent in front of RTO office for a learners licence in India J.

The guide started the tour again at 11:20. We walked outside of the border wall (now actually in Italy), walked around for entry through a side entrance. There was a queue there as well, it was drizzling now.

We waited in rain for some 20-25 minutes there and the guide had vanished. It was not as bad as I thought. This entrance is officially for groups. But the officials let the guides come with ‘groups’ take little more freedom than the normal groups.

At last we got our tickets and entered around 12. She took us to the top floor, and a lobby there used by guides to explain with some paper slides in a white board. There was a 30 minutes session on what is inside, how Michelangelo became a favorite for the Popes as he was very religious ad did all those works without asking for money. And Da Vinci was money minded, as he asked to be paid for the works.

But to leave the lighter side, there were a lot of things explained on how the Popes used to build their own part in Vatican, and trying to make it unique to become memorable themselves. Sistine Chapel was one of the examples. Again, she explained on what we will see inside Sistine Chapel, she took us through the Central painting, and the ceiling ones (many of them are famous).

Then, it was a fast walk through the museum corridors, the painting on carpets/ old canvas, the paintings on the ceiling looking like a 3D picture. She also explained the technique used by Michelangelo to paint one layer and let it dry to paint another layer on it, which may be the reason for the 3D feel.

Photos were not banned anywhere except the Sistine chapel. But in many places flash was banned (thanks to the ISO technology). But, people were using flashes to the frustration of the guards who sometime caught one or two and shouting,’ who is his guide?’ J.

The guide reminded of the instructions she had told for Sistine Chapel in her lecture, and left us in front of it. We entered, a small chapel with little high ceiling. It was crowded and most of the people were flashing through photography was banned. I also broke the law to take snaps, but without flash, if flash hurting the paints is the concern.

To come out of it, there is a door through which the crowd exits, but we were instructed to spot another tricky door on the opposite corner. The password for the security to open that door was to tell him the guide’s name or some mark of her (luckily, or unluckily for her, our guide had a fracture in her nose which helped us). Out of it, many of the group were there, but not the guide ! Some of us started even seaching her inside the corridors.

As earlier, she appeared after sometime. And she appeared to just tell us the way to enter St.Peter’s. She also gave us a brief of the three chapels inside, and spot the ceiling painted by Michelangelo.

Spotted a door, wonderfully depicting Jesus’s story, but there was a twist after his resurrection on the third day! The next one showed Pope standing with two juniors around one bowing with a candle!

St.Peter’s was massive, as big as looked from outside! We walked inside, snaps, it was a memorable experience inside the Sistine Chapel as well as inside the St.Peter’s.

The guards in Vatican still wear the uniform which was designed by Michelangelo in 15^th century! A colourful dress, beautifully simple!

We were done, by 2:45. Pranav was already gone crossing his limits of tolerance. We left the country of Vatican, looking for some food. An old man tried to invite us offering for ‘hot pizzas’. We ignored him and went ahead. Got a small shop which gave us some pasta, and Pranav picked some gelato as well. Later we saw the old man sitting in a panini cart, with the same ‘pizza’ which spoiled our lunch on the first day! Lucky we said No...

We walked out of the little country of Vatican, through the main entrance. An important thing I noticed was the simplicity inside the premises. Though the buildings were all grand and lavishly sculptured/painted, people were all down-to-Earth and simple. The sisters (probably the visiting nuns) also waiting in the long queue for entry tickets. The priests, nuns, inside the different areas we visited also were very humble and soft-spoken. This is inspite of the provocations of people breaking the rules to be followed in a Spiritual place. At the end of the day, I really appreciate the warmth and welcome Vatican provided.

Out of Vatican, we crossed the river over the bridge facing St.Angelo( the bridge is also named ‘Ponte St.Angelo’). It started getting dark slowly. Walked through some areas which has some museums, and around a place which the map said ‘Augustus Caesar’s Tomb’. But we could see nothing noticeable there than an unmaintained premises, with a broken gate! And none seems to take notice of the same as well. Almost the same state as the Domus Aurea...

After more than an hour walk, we reach Trevi Fountain. One of the most famous fountains in the World, Trevi’s water source was an aqueduct from as early as 19 BC. And it was just a source of water for the city, not a fountain. The current 26 metres high and 20 metres wide design is built in late 18^th century.

We had a gelato near Trevi, a wonderful small shop with so many varieties of ice creams! There also most of the employees were Bangladeshis with an Italian boss.

The fountain was pretty crowded, with tourists. There were couple of photographers too, who would take a digital snap and make a print with a small- battery operated printer. Then there was another old man, who was walking here and there with a thin-long stick. In the crowd, he was trying to get the coins people threw in to the fountain with that stick! He is little less stupid than I first thought, he had put some chewing gum at the dipping end J. And, he was wondering why the coins are not sticking to the gum when the gum is sticky outside water! Only if he knew chewing gum loses it sticky nature when wet J.

We, then, walked to Barberini metro station. It was Monday and only now realized that Rome is not a museum city, but a modern metro city too. The trains were very crowded and packed that we couldn’t even enter a couple of them. But I was amazed to see the next one coming in as one just left the platform, with just a few seconds gap! Took the third metro, which was a little less crowded. We could just move in with the crowd and stand, to Termini and walked back to the hotel around 6:30.

We were all so tired, except Pranav ! He was so much troubling while walking, saying his legs are paining. But back in hotel, he was happily jumping in the spring bed ! The bed was in a corner, and the French window had a marble slab. Pranav at one point lost control and fell down with the back of his head hitting the slab !

We kept the bleeding head under water stream… the cut was about 5 cm long, and deep enough that I could see the flesh. The bleeding stopped, Pranav also was back to normal, and slept as well in a few minutes.

Rome Weekender 4

Day2 :

The day started around 9, we had our breakfast at the terrace of our hotel. From the terrace on top of the 8^th floor, I could see half finished, un-plastered constructs on the terraces, another small house itself made on the terrace with a portico, the dish TV / normal TV antennas, the clothes put for drying in the ropes, concrete water tanks, metal water tanks, split AC outdoor units and I couldn’t believe it was not India!

We started the day out by 10, walked to the nearest metro station, took two day tickets from the vending machine. Pranav was cribbing for a ticket so gave the previous day’s ticket to him. We walked to the entrance and were to just put our tickets for validation, the clerk sitting in the enquiry rushed to us telling, ’No ticket for kids’!

We told him it is not a valid ticket and then he gave a smile and went back to his seat. Pranav was not happy, to hear that he is not worth a ticket :). It was impressive; to see someone caring to make sure I don’t lose money!

We got down at Colosseo changing at Termini to line A from line B, that itself is confusion :) . I at least twice landed up in front of a safety freak, who will look in to my eyes and say ‘Hello !’ in a rude tone in a mix of fear and acting courage holding his suitcase more tight which is already held in embrace mode :)…! Second instance, Krithi noticed it and she started pulling my leg of my ‘thief looks’:)!

As usual, there was a very long queue in front of Colosseum for entry… and I had the best tip to jump this line… thanks to my colleague Bala! Actually, the ticket for colosseum is clubbed with Forum and Palatine Hill…and the other two also has counters. All the three counters issue the same ticket and the ticket allows one entry in all these three places within two days of issue.

Yes, you got the trick! The other counters are empty or just 2-3 people in the queue compared to Colosseum where there are at least 75 people! We walked in to the Palatine Hill counter, took tickets and seeing Pranav they said he don’t need a ticket. I had read in the site that 1meter above high kids need a full ticket. This guy has just touched 1m, and it was a surprise they said no tickets for him. I think the fat jacket and his looks would have given them a feel that he is shorter. Anyway, that then became a problem at the three entry gates to explain to the guy that we checked at the counter, she said no ticket…. Blah blah…Again, the adhoc ways worked here as well, similar to India. If it was rest of Europe, I would have been asked to go back and take a ticket for Pranav. But for Pranav, he was again angry for not taking tickets for him :) !

We took solid 3 hours walking through the old Rome, initially walking in between some ruins, and the major labeled ruins include the temple of Venus and Roma ( this is the first monument we noticed which is taken over by the Catholic Church and renamed as S.Francesca Romana), Basilica of Marcellus, Porticus Octaviae, Temple of Saturn, the Curia Iulia( the regular meeting place of Roman Senate), Palatine Hill, ruins of a huge stadium in Palatine Hill and the huge cricket stump-like (with bails) remaining three pillars of Roman Forum.

It was an interesting fact to notice that the cella (I would contextually translate this Latin word meaning ‘small chamber’ as Shrine) of the temple of Venus faces the East like all the Hindu temples!!! Pranav was more annoyed, he started asking us to take him back home and in the bargain he got the deal to be carried on shoulders… ! Oh God, not again!

We were done with the Forum and Palatine Hill around 1:30. We were exiting from the old Rome part through Forum gates to go to Collosseum. Pranav who was happy to hear we are finishing with this, ran ahead and lost from our sight ! We missed the turn for exit as well, eventually got lost ourselves! A little panic to find Pranav, we were not sure which way he went, and there were lot of people too. Pranav had actually taken the turn for exit and was stopped at the exit by the security lady. As we found him standing there and ran towards him, he was explaining to the security to not to get worried, as his parents are just coming behind ! Colosseum will close around 4:30, so decided go in before taking lunch.

Colosseum was much huge and sophisticated structure than I thought…multi level, multiple sections in each level, leading to a gallery… the seats used to be numbered with a combination of section of the gallery! The viewers can come in and go out freely like the current stadiums through the nearest exit…an underground level for the ‘entertainers’ (beasts, convicts, gladiators etc) which is also made in a sophisticated way. The underground level looks like a maze now when the top layer (the layer which was the entertainment ground) is gone ! Sadly, I saw the ‘cross’ had come in to the Colosseum as well, surely not there during its construction in 80 AD.

There were pulley mechanisms to bring the beasts to the arena level…there are too many things executed pretty well ! I think it may have been picturised well in the film ‘Gladiator’. We finished with Colosseum by 3. Pranav is having regular biscuits, but I think he was getting sleepy and so cranky too :( . I wont blame him, it was a bit hectic on him!

We walked to the standing restaurant annexed with the Colosseo metro station. We all had a gelato and Pranav was very happy to see that ‘lunch’!

Started walking again towards Piazza Venezia, which is around a km from Collosseum. This road was blocked for traffic so we could walk in peace. This walk was through a modern broad road with both sides full of ruins, columns and statues.

Had a view of the marvelous and huge Victor Emmanuel II monument from Piazza Venezia, took a bus to get down somewhere near Pantheon and then walked to it through the narrow streets. It was 4 PM.

It was high time that we should get some food, there was a McD in front of Pantheon, and we walked in for the one and only bad treatment in Rome! I was asking after ordering for finger chips and milk shake, for anything veggie is available in burgers or as salads… the response was a yell from the middle aged waitress, “McD DO NOT have anything veggie…!”

We were tired, and hungry, and not in a shape to reply; I paid for the rest and waited for her to serve the same. But I think, it was a punishment for me that I got carried away by the comments in net that Italians are rude and its advice look for McD! I got really a wonderful experience wherever I went in Rome except this multi-national!

We finished with our ‘lunch’, walked to enter pantheon; the entry to inside Pantheon was blocked for some reason. So took some snaps from outside. This is one of the oldest monuments of Rome which is still in good shape. The most interesting part of Pantheon is, its dome is still the World’s largest unreinforced concrete dome, after almost two thousand years it was built ! It is now nothing more than a converted church, from being the temple of Roman Gods!

Continued the walk, to Piazza Novona, it is getting dark already. Another grand piazza(square) with 2 huge, old fountains with a lot of artwork and it was in full festive mood - a lot of shops, balloons, toys, and Pranav is back with all energy, and fully confused as to what NOT to buy. But as he knows he will have to choose one, got away with a Winnie-the-Pooh hydrogen balloon J .

There were ‘performers’ as well, and one of them was very interesting. He, an old man, had a microphone and a sound system. He was ‘singing’ wonderfully with the sound system with karoke giving the musical support. I grew suspicious and went near him, to realize that this fraud oldie was just moving his lips … lol… ! His lip movements were not matching the high pitch song coming out of the sound system, which was my reason for suspicion.

Walked till Castel Sant’Angelo. It is dark already. This was built on the right bank of the Tiber in about 139 AD, by and as a mausoleum for Roman Emperor Hadrian and his family. But the building was later used by the Popes as a fortress and castle. The Papal state has also used it as a prison. Now it serves as a museum.

We then took a bus to Colosseum around 5:30. It was crowded and took a long time to reach; it took a real roundabout way for sure. We both were standing, Pranav got a seat. As usual, soon he started counting the number of people around him who is looking at him, and then try smiling at them. There was one old lady who was with her daughter and grand daughter (of Pranav’s age). She started the conversation with Pranav playfully asking if he can give away the balloon to her grand daughter, in Italian. A new country, a stranger, and a foreign language! I would have thought Pranav will look at me and then say a big No to her, and if she asks again, he will cry.

But, to my surprise, he softly said, ‘Speak in English!!!’ and the below conversation followed:

Old lady: ‘You …are in Roma… speak Roman’

P: ‘I don’t speak Roma, I only speak English. You don’t speak English ?’

Pranav’s job is done. He got enough spectators around, to enjoy his entertainment! The old lady was also nice enough to keep the conversation going, in spite of the fact that she couldn’t understand English. The only other part I remember is:

Old lady: ‘ See, this is my grand daughter…’

P: ‘Ya, she is beautiful’ !!!( * And, I was like …you know… :O !*)

Old lady:’ and she likes your balloon…’

P: ’Buy her one… ’

And it went on….the people around were enjoying the show…

We got down near colosseum, and the drama came to an end J . Now, there was only one item left for me to finish the day… taking a night shot of Colosseum with the lights on…Time was around 6:15.

I went on looking for some spots, and found some steps on the opposite side of Colosseum to get a good view of it. Found a platform to keep the camera still for a few seconds, and took some pictures. Krithi and Pranav were tired and sitting in the metro station steps when I came back. We took the metro to Termini, walked back to the room by 7:15, after a long, tiring day…!

Pranav was insisting to have dinner at the same restaurant we had dinner yesterday. We tried some grilled vegetables too, along with Penne Arabiatta and vegetarian Pizza. The grilled vegetables with mozzarella melted on it, was very tasty! With another tasty dinner, a very tiring, hectic second day came to an end.